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 Royal Treatment
You no longer need to be part of the monarchy to stay at a castle. Today, you can sleep in a regal setting at one of these storied castle hotels. BY NICOLE ALPER
As my driver whisks our Mercedes Benz across the bridge over the river Cong, it comes into view. Ashford Castle, built in 1228, and later home to Ireland’s famed Guinness family, stands tall and turreted, like something out of a Harry Potter film — an impression that turns even more acute as I approach the castle steps. Sitting on the gloved hand of a lovely French woman is Dingle, a massive European eagle owl with deep orange eyes. Dingle is one of the many raptors at the castle’s Falconry School, something I discover over the next few days, as I play the part of landed gentry in this fairy tale vacation.
 Staying in a castle hotel is indeed a bit like taking up residence inside a storybook, filled with clanking armor and secret corridors. And with all of the amenities of five-star resorts, castle hotels possess something altogether absent from new properties — history — not to mention vast grounds, a mind-boggling menu of outdoor activities, and a genuine sense of place. Here are several addresses to sleep like a king or queen.
Ashford Castle, Ireland
Inside Ashford Castle, steep staircases and cozy nooks dare visitors to explore, but the real adventure takes place outside. You can horseback ride through hundreds of acres of parkland, or test your skills at clay pigeon shooting. A highlight is the Falconry School, where you meet all manner of raptors and wander the grounds as a lucky few follow you from tree to tree. Meals take place in the George V Room, where you dine under the light of 11 Waterford chandeliers. Tasting menus, featuring such dishes as suprême of Connemara lamb, are served in the intimate Connaught Room (open May to September), featuring a hand-carved inglenook fireplace. (800) 346-7007 or 011-353-94-954-6003, www.ashford.ie
 Dromoland Castle, Ireland
From the moment you pass through the iron gates of Dromoland Castle estate, Ashford’s sister property, you are transported. The castle walls enclose 410 magnificent acres, a lush buffer to any semblance of the outside world. Once the ancestral home to the O’Brien Clan, one of the few native Gaelic families of royal Irish blood, the interior of the castle features medieval suits of armor, elaborate wood and stone carvings, and rich oak paneling. The castle’s many hundreds of years of history are palpable — not the static kind you feel when entering a museum, but a lively history filled with knights and elaborate displays of chivalry. Dromoland’s Golf and Country Club features a stunning 18-hole championship golf course that runs along a lake. In addition, there’s fishing, archery, clay pigeon shooting, boating, mountain biking, and a stunning new spa. Open fires are constant features in public areas and are ideal settings for an aperitif prior to dinner in the Earl of Thomond restaurant. Chocolates, liqueur, and soft Irish tunes await you when you retire. (800) 346-7007 or 011-353-61-368-144, www.dromoland.ie
 Stobo Castle, Scotland
Just 30 miles west of Edinburgh and nestled in Scotland’s Borders countryside, Stobo Castle is the stuff of dreams, drawing celebrities and A-listers who seek out the comforts of the castle’s 50 individually decorated suites. A favorite is the Cashmere Suite, lined entirely in a lush claret-colored cashmere. Individual plasma-screen televisions are placed at the bottom of two massive cashmere-draped Italian hand-painted beds. At Stobo you’ll never be short on things to do. Take a long walk along Stobo Loch, or a mountain bike ride through the surrounding Forestry Commission land or estate. And how many castles serve up a 40-room luxury spa with more than 70 treatments? Don’t miss the exclusive Stobo Castle Facial, using their brand of “Castle Care” products. 011-01-721-725-300, www.stobocastle.co.uk
 Castello di Velona, Italy
It may have been built in the 10th century as a fortress, but after a recent $16 million renovation, the Castello di Velona has immense 21st-century appeal. Set in the heart of Tuscany — look in the distance and you see the nearly 6,000-foot Mount Amiata summit — the property overlooks the kind of sun-drenched olive groves and vast vineyards that inspired the likes of Renaissance painters Tiepolo and Botticelli. The 20 suites and two double rooms are individually decorated, each with a fireplace, antique furniture, and original artwork. Summertime lures diners out beneath the cypress trees and, come winter, you can feast in Le Cologne restaurant beside a roaring fire. For outdoor fun, take a stroll along the River Orcia or horseback ride through the countryside. 011-39-0577-800-101, www.slh.com/castellovelona
 Château de Bagnols, France
Set among thriving vineyards and forests in the heart of the Beaujolais countryside, a honey-colored stone castle hotel, accessed from an authentic drawbridge, is teeming with history. In 1987, Lady Hamlyn took the Château de Bagnols, which dates back to the 13th century, under her wing. By 1992 she had transformed the castle to its former grandeur: Twenty-one rooms and suites, many with original Renaissance wall paintings, are fit for a king (and queen). You can sit on the terrace, shaded by 100-year-old lime trees, and sip one of countless local vintages before feasting on regional specialties at Michelin Star The Salle des Gardes restaurant. Only 90 minutes from the ski slopes of the Alps (and 30 minutes from Lyon), this is also an ideal place to unwind in regal fashion after a ski vacation. 011-33-4-74-71-4000, www.bagnols.com
 Amberley Castle, England
Nearly a millennium old and previously home to the likes of Elizabeth I, England’s Amberley Castle is an architectural gem tucked in the lee of the Sussex South Downs in Southern England. Once you cross the drawbridge and pass the massive oak portcullis (the gate continues to be lowered each night at midnight — now that’s privacy), you enter a romantic medieval world where peacocks roam rose gardens and rich tapestries line the castle walls. Think you hear late night footsteps on the oak floors? It could be Amberley’s resident ghost Emily, a servant girl seduced by a bishop centuries ago who, legend says, threw herself and her baby off the battlements when he spurned her love. There are 19 luxurious bedrooms and suites, many with dramatic four-poster beds and period antiques. (The Bishopric is comprised of two 17th-century stone buildings, each with five suites.) Spend afternoons roaming the 12 acres, including lakes, an 18-hole golf course, and a tennis court. You are also just minutes away from antique hunting in Arundel, Brighton, and Petworth, as well as Jane Austen’s house at Chawton. 011-44-1798-831-992, www.amberleycastle.co.uk
Posh Palaces
For an equally grand experience, try one of Europe’s numerous palace hotels.
Beau-Rivage Palace, Switzerland
From its founding in 1865 by Jean-Jacques Mayer, grandfather of the current owners, Beau-Rivage Palace continues to be one of Switzerland’s most luxurious hotels. Spectacular suites offer magnificent views of Lake Geneva and the Alps. Another highlight: the lovely new Cinq Monde Spa. 011-41-220-716-6666, www.beau-rivage.ch
Hotel De Crillon, France
An elegant 18th-century palace commissioned in 1758 by Louis XV, Hotel de Crillon was transformed into a hotel in 1909 and remains one of Paris’ most exclusive addresses, just steps away from the boutiques of the Faubourg St.-Honoré. 011-33-1-44-71-1501, www.
crillon.com
ÇıraGan Palace Hotel Kempinski, Istanbul
The former residence of the last Ottoman Sultan, Çıragan Palace Hotel completed a head-to-toe renovation in 2004. Be sure to check out one of the 11 luxurious VIP suites in the original palace, including the Sultan Suite, with private butler service. (800) 223-6800 or 011-90-212-326-4646, www.kempinski.com
Palácio Belmonte, Portugal
A 15th-century palace on the edge of the Castelo São George district, Palácio Belmonte was restored by French owner Frederic Coustols. Look out for suites with remnants of Roman towers and original azulejos, the regional blue-and-white tiles. 011-351-21-881-6600, www.palaciobelmonte.com
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